BETTER FARMING SERIES

Twenty-nine titles have been published in this series, designed as handbooks for agricultural education and training. They may be purchased as a set or individually.

FIRST YEAR

1. The plant: the living plant; the root

2. The plant: the stem; the buds; the leaves

3. The plant: the flower

4. The soil: how the soil is made up

5. The soil: how to conserve the soil

6. The soil: how to improve the soil

7. Crop farming

8. Animal husbandry: feeding and care of animals

9. Animal husbandry: animal diseases; how animals reproduce

SECOND YEAR

10. The farm business survey

11. Cattle breeding

12. Sheep and goat breeding

13. Keeping chickens

14. Farming with animal power

15. Cereals

16. Roots and tubers

17. Groundnuts

18. Bananas

19. Market gardening

20. Upland rice

21. Wet paddy or swamp rice

22. Cocoa

23. Coffee

24. The oil palm

25. The rubber tree

26. The modern farm business

27. Freshwater fish farming: how to begin

28. Water: where water comes from

29. Better freshwater fish farming: the pond

Better Farming Series    29

Better freshwater fish farming

the pond

FOOD AND AGRICULTURE ORGANIZATION OF THE UNITED NATIONS

Rome 1981

FAO Economic and Social Development Series No.3/29

First printing 1981

P-69

ISBN 92-5-101127-3

© FAO 1981

Contents

1. Preface

2. Outline Of Course

3. Improving your fish farm

4. Planning a bigger pond

1. Where to put your pond

2. Water

3. Place

4. Soil

5. Testing soil

6. How large should your pond be?

5. Building a bigger pond

1. How to make your old pond bigger

2. How to build a new, bigger pond

3. The inlet

4. The outlet

5. A better outlet

6. The overflow

7. A siphon

8. Screens

PREFACE

The FAO Better Farming Series is essentially based on the Cours d’apprentissage agricole prepared in the Ivory Coast by the Institut africain de développement économique et social for use by extension workers in contact with illiterate or semi-literate farmers. The approach is deliberately a general one, the intention being to constitute basic prototype outlines, to be supplemented in each area according to local conditions of agriculture.

Many of the booklets deal with specific crops, while others, such as this one, are intended to give the farmer information concerning the general agricultural context, and thus to allow him to gain some understanding of why he does what he does so that he will be able to do, it better.

Adaptations of the series, or of individual volumes in it, have been published, among others, in Amharic, Arabic, Bengali, Creole, Hindi, Igala, Indonesian, Kiswahili, Malagasy, SiSwati and Turkish. This impressive list is some indication of the success and also of the value of the series. This volume has been prepared by the Inland Water Resources and Aquaculture Service, Fishery Resources and Environment Division of the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations.

Requests for permission to issue this manual in other languages and to adapt it according to local climatic and ecological conditions are welcomed. They should be addressed to the Director, Publications Division, Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations, Via delle Terme di Caracalla, 00100 Rome, Italy.

OUTLINE OF THE COURSE

• Improving your fish farm

• Planning a bigger pond

Where to put your pond

Water

Place

Soil

Testing soil

How large should your pond be?

• Building a bigger pond

How to make your old pond bigger

How to build a new, bigger pond

The inlet

The outlet

A better outlet

The overflow

A siphon

Screens

IMPROVING YOUR FISH FARM

1. You have already built the small pond

described in Booklet No. 27,

Freshwater fish farming: how to begin,

and you have grown many fish in it.

2. Your family would like to have more fish to eat,

and you have learned at the market

that you can sell more fish if you have them.

3. You would like to grow more fish to eat

and to sell at the market

so that you and your family can live better.

Growing more fish is improving your fish farm.

4. You can improve your fish farm

by making your old pond bigger.

If your old pond

was 10 by 10 metres,

you can make it twice as big

by moving some of the banks.

You can make it 10 by 20 metres.

5. You can improve your fish farm

by building a new, bigger fish pond

either next to your old pond

or in another place.

You can improve your fish farm

by building more than one pond.

6. But start slowly and carefully.

First, build only one new pond.

After you have built

your first bigger pond

and you know how to use it

to grow more fish,

you can build more ponds

and grow fish all year round.

7. After you have built

one or more new, bigger ponds,

you will need more baby fish

than you did before.

You may decide to grow

your own baby fish

so that you will have them

when you need them.

8. This is another way

of improving your fish farm.

You will learn more about it

in Booklet No. 30.

9. Before you begin

to improve your fish farm,

you must be sure that:

• you have enough

of the right kind of land

• you have enough good water near by

• you and your family have enough time

to work a bigger pond or more ponds

PLANNING A BIGGER POND

Where to put your pond

10. If your old pond

was in the right place

and you have enough water

and enough good land there,

you can make your old pond bigger

or you can build one or more new ponds

in the same place.

11. If there is no room

or not enough water

near your old pond,

you will have to choose

another place for your new pond.

You must choose the new place

very carefully.

Water

12. Your new pond must be near

a good supply of water

such as a spring, stream,

lake or reservoir

with plenty of water

all year round.

13. You must be sure

that you have enough water

to fill your pond

when it is time to fill it

and to add more water

when you need it.

14. Do not depend on rain-water

to fill your pond.

When it does not rain,

there may not be enough water

to keep your pond full

and the fish may die.

15. Your water must come from a place

that is higher than the pond

so that the water

will flow into the pond by itself.

16. The water should not have a bad smell,

taste or colour.

It should not be too muddy.

17. The water should not have

wild fish in it.

You do not want wild fish

in your pond

because they may eat your fish

or keep them from growing.

18. Water from a natural spring

close to the pond site

is usually good

and there will not be wild fish in it.

19. Water from a stream

or from a lake or reservoir

is usually good

but it may have wild fish in it.

You will have to be careful

that the wild fish

do not swim into your pond.

Place

20. It is best to put a pond

in a place with a slope or on a hillside

because you will not have to dig

as much soil to build it.

A pond built on a slope

is also easier to drain.

21. Do not build your pond

in a place that is so low

that it is flooded

during the rainy season

Soil

22. The soil where you build your pond

should not be too sandy.

Soil with too much sand or gravel in it

will not hold water.

23. In sandy soil the water

will sink into the ground

and there will not be enough water

for your fish.

24. If the banks of your pond

are built of sandy soil,

they will not be strong enough

to keep the water from flowing away.

25. The soil where you build your pond

should have enough clay in it.

Clay soil holds water very well.

26. In clay soil, very little water

will sink into the ground,

and banks of clay

will be strong enough

to hold the water in the pond.

Testing soil

27. You should test the soil

to see if it is good

for building a pond.

28. The first test is easy.

Take a handful of soil from the surface

and squeeze it into a ball.

29. Throw the ball of soil into the air

and catch it.

30. Bad soil with too much sand

or gravel in it

will not stick together

and the ball will fall apart.

31. If the ball sticks together well,

the soil may be good

but you cannot be sure.

Now you should make a second test

to be sure that the soil is good.

32. Dig a hole as deep as your waist.

Early in the morning

fill it with water.

Fill it to the top.

33. By evening some of the water

will have sunk into the soil.

34. Then fill the hole with water again.

Fill it to the top.

Cover the hole with boards

or leafy branches.

35. The next morning

if most of the water

is still in the hole,

the soil will hold enough water

to build a fish pond there.

How large should your pond be?

36. It is good to start with a pond

about twice as big

as your old pond.

37. For example,

if you build a pond

15 by 15 metres,

the pond will measure about 225 square metres.

Your old pond measured 100 square metres.

38. A square pond is easier to build,

but your pond can have a different shape

to fit the size and shape of your land.

39. This book will tell you

how to make your old pond bigger.

Then it will tell you

how to build a new, square pond

measuring 15 by 15 metres.

40. When you build a bigger pond,

you should try to make it better

than your old pond.

41. A bigger pond should have:

• an inlet

to let the water into the pond,

which should have a screen

to keep out wild fish,

twigs, leaves and other trash;

• an outlet

to let the water flow out of the pond

so that you can take out all the fish

and clean the pond,

the outlet having a screen

to keep your fish from getting away

when you drain the pond;

• an overflow

to let some of the water flow away

when there is too much water in the pond.

If there is too much water in the pond,

some of the water may flow over the banks

and some of your fish may get away.

The overflow should have a screen

to prevent this happening.

BUILDING A BIGGER POND

How to make your old pond bigger

42. The easiest way

to make your old pond bigger

is to build a new, small pond

next to your old pond.

43. Build the new pond

in the same way that you built

the old pond.

Booklet No. 27

tells you how to do it.

44. In building the new pond,

take away one side bank

of the old pond

and use the earth

to build the new banks.

45. You will not need to make a new inlet

for your new pond

because the old one in the old part of the pond

is all you will need.

46. You will need to make a new outlet

in your new pond

to let the water flow

from the old part of the pond

into the new part of the pond.

47. You will also need to make an overflow

for the new pond.

The old pond did not have one.

48. The drawing shows you

where to put the new outlet

and how the water should flow

and where to put the overflow.

You will learn how to build

an outlet and an overflow

later in this book.

How to build a new, bigger pond

49. There is much more work to do

when you build a big pond

than when you build a small pond.

50. First mark out a big square

on the site you have chosen,

about 21 by 21 metres.

Mark the corners with pegs

and run a string between the pegs

to show you where

the outside of the banks will be.

51. Clear the big square

of all trees, bushes and grass

and take away

all the big roots you can.

52. Take away about 20 centimetres

of topsoil from all over the square.

Put the topsoil aside.

Later you will put it back

on the top and outer sides of the banks.

53. Then mark out a small square

inside the big square,

about 15 by 15 metres.

Mark the corners with pegs

and run a string between the pegs

to show you where

the inside of the banks will be.

54. The bottom of the bank

in the shallow part of your pond

and along the sides should be about 1 metre

from the upper end and sides

of the small square.

55. The bottom of the bank

in the deepest part of your pond

should be about 2 metres

from the lower end

of the small square.

56. Now mark out a third smaller area

in the centre of your pond,

about 12 by 13 metres.

We will call this the central area.

Mark the corners with pegs

and run a string between the pegs

to show where

the bottom of the banks will be.

57. Be sure that all the pegs and strings

marking the 21-metre square,

the 15-metre square

and the central area

are set up in the way

shown in the drawings.

58. Now you are ready

to begin digging out soil

from inside the central area

to build the banks of your pond.

59. Ask your neighbours to help you

to dig your big pond.

Then you can help them in turn

to dig their ponds.

60. Shared work is lighter work.

When we work together

with our neighbours,

the work is easier and better.

61. Begin digging at the 1 -metre string

marking the central area

at the upper end of your pond.

Dig about 20 centimetres deep.

As you dig toward the lower end,

dig a little deeper.

When you get to the deepest part,

at the 2-metre string

marking the central area,

you should be digging

about 30 centimetres deep.

62. As you dig out the soil,

put it between

the 15 by 15-metre square

and the 21 by 21-metre square

where the banks will be.

Put it nearest to where you are digging.

This way, the banks

will be higher and wider

as you move toward the lower end.

63. When you come to roots,

take away as much of them

as you can.

64. Whenever the loose soil

you put on the banks

reaches half as high as your knees,

pack it down tightly.

You can do this

by beating the soil with a heavy plank,

a length of tree trunk

or an earth tamper.

65. When you are digging,

keep the slope of the pond bottom

as regular as you can.

It should slope gently down

from the upper end to the deepest part.

The bottom of the pond

should have slopes

like those in the drawings.

66. Begin again

to dig soil out of the central area.

Dig 20 more centimetres from the upper end

and 30 more centimetres from the deepest part.

Put the soil on the banks

and pack it down tightly as before.

67. Now begin again,

for the third and last time,

to dig soil out of the central area.

Dig 20 more centimetres from the upper end

and 30 more centimetres from the deepest part.

Put the soil on the banks

and pack it down tightly.

68. When you have finished

digging out the central area

and you have put on the banks

all the soil that you have taken out,

you will have a hole 12 by 13 metres

with straight sides.

Now it is time to shape the banks

69. Dig the soil away

from the edges of the central area

to form the slope of the banks.

Put this soil on top of the banks

and pack it down tightly.

70. The inside of the banks

should slope less steeply

than the outside.

The drawing shows you

what the banks should look like

when they are finished.

71. The top of the banks

should be about 1.5 metres wide

and should be straight and flat

all the way around the pond.

72. Put the 20 centimetres of topsoil

you took away when you began digging

on the top and outer sides of the banks.

Plant grass on the banks.

Banks covered with grass last longer.

73. The bottom of your pond should be

about 1.10 metres from the top of the banks

at the shallow upper end

and about 1.40 metres from the top of the banks

at the deepest part.

74. Be sure that the bottom of the pond

is fairly smooth and regular.

75. Now dig a ditch

in the bottom of the pond

from the centre to the lower end.

The ditch should be

about 50 centimetres wide

and about 20 centimetres deep.

This ditch will help

to drain out all the water

when you empty your pond.

76. When the ditch is finished,

remove all loose soil and other trash

from the bottom of the pond.

77. Now you are ready

to install your inlet,

outlet and overflow

The inlet

78. You will need an inlet

to let water into your pond

when you want to fill it.

79. You should place the inlet

at the point nearest to the water supply.

Most often this will be at or near

the upper end of your pond.

80. Your inlet can be made

from a piece of heavy bamboo

or a pipe of plastic or metal.

The inlet pipe should be

about 10 centimetres in diameter.

81. The inlet pipe should be long enough

to reach through the top of the bank

from one side to the other.

You will need a pipe about 3 metres long

to reach through the bank

at the upper end of your pond.

82. Now dig a gap in the bank

where you want the inlet to be.

It should be a little above the water-level

on the inside of your pond

and a little below the level of the water

which flows from the source

on the outside of your pond.

83. Put the inlet pipe

in the gap in the bank

and rebuild the bank over it.

84. You can also make an inlet

by cutting a shallow trench

through the bank

to let the water into the pond.

85. If you use a shallow trench

to get water into your pond,

you can improve it

and keep it from washing away

by using a trough of roofing metal

to line the bottom of the trench.

The outlet

86. You will need an outlet

to let water out of your pond

when you want to empty it.

87. You should place the outlet

at the bottom of the bank

at the lower end of your pond

at the deepest part.

88. The outlet can be made

from a piece of heavy bamboo

or a pipe of plastic or metal.

The outlet pipe should be

about 10 centimetres in diameter.

The bank of your pond

is much wider at the lower end

than at the upper end,

so the outlet pipe

will have to be longer

than the inlet pipe.

89. The outlet pipe should be long enough

to reach through the bottom of the bank

from one side to the other.

You will need a pipe about 6.5 metres long

to reach through the bank

at the lower end of your pond.

90. If you cannot get a pipe

that is long enough to go through the bank,

you can join shorter pieces of pipe together

using straight pieces of pipe

like the ones in the drawing.

91. If you are using bamboo,

you can join short pieces of bamboo together

with pieces of smaller bamboo in the centre,

but the smaller pieces should be

at least 8 to 9 centimetres in diameter.

Wrap the bamboo joints

with rope and close them with tar

to keep water from seeping out.

92. Now dig a gap in the bank

where you want the outlet to be.

It should reach from the deepest part

on the inside of the pond

through the bank

to the outside of the pond.

93. If the outlet pipe

is below ground level

on the outside of the pond,

you will have to dig a ditch

to take the water away from the outlet.

94. Put the outlet pipe

in the gap in the bank

and rebuild the bank over it.

95. If you use an outlet

of about 10 centimetres in diameter,

it will take about half a day

to empty your pond.

96. It is easier to place the outlet

where you want it to be

before you dig out the centre of the pond

and build the banks.

When you build another pond,

you will understand this

and you will be able to do it

when you are building the banks.

But now, when you are building your first pond,

you should place the outlet

in the way you have just learned

in this booklet

because it is easier to understand.

A better outlet

97. If you use a plastic or metal pipe

for the outlet of your pond,

you can make it better

by putting an upright length of pipe

on the end of the outlet

using an L or a T piece

like the ones in the drawing.

Close the T piece with a plug as shown.

98. Put the L or T piece and the upright pipe

on the end of the outlet outside the pond,

but protect it so that it cannot be reached

by animals or other people.

99. The top of the upright pipe

should reach about 3 to 5 centimetres

above the water-level of your pond.

If the water rises above this level,

it will overflow from the upright pipe.

100. Tie the upright pipe to a pole

which has been pounded into the ground

so that it will not slip down

and let the water out of the pond

before you want it to.

101. When you want to let out the water,

untie the upright pipe

and push it down.

The water will then flow out of the pond.

102. There is still another way

to let water out of your pond,

using a siphon.

You will learn how to use a siphon

in Items 114-124.

The overflow

103. If there is too much water in your pond,

some of the water may flow over the banks.

This may wash the banks away

and some of your fish may get out.

104. You can use an overflow

to keep the water in your pond

from rising over the banks.

105. The better outlet

you learned about in Items 97-101

will act as an overflow.

106. If you use a straight pipe outlet

or a siphon

to let water out of your pond,

you will need another kind of overflow.

107. This kind of overflow can be made

from a piece of bamboo

or a pipe of plastic or metal.

The overflow pipe should be

about 6 centimetres in diameter.

108. The overflow pipe should be long enough

to reach through the top of the bank

from the inside of the pond

to a place far enough on the outside

to keep overflow water

from washing away the bank.

You will need a pipe about 4.5 metres long

to do this.

109. If you cannot get a pipe

that is long enough,

join short pieces of pipe or bamboo together.

(see Items 90 and 91).

110. It is best to place your overflow

in the bank

at the lower end of your pond

right above the outlet

so that the water that overflows

can run off in the outlet ditch.

111. If you are going to put the overflow

over the outlet,

you can put it in the same gap

that you dug for the outlet in Item 92.

The water-line should be

about 50 centimetres

below the top of the bank,

so put your overflow there

as you rebuild the bank.

112. If you are going to put the overflow

in another place,

you will have to dig another gap in the bank

about 50 centimetres deep.

113. When the pond is full,

the overflow will keep the water

about 60 centimetres deep

at the shallow upper end

and about 90 centimetres deep

at the deepest part.

A siphon

114. You can also use a siphon

to empty your pond.

If you use a siphon,

you will not need an outlet

but you will need an overflow

like the one described in Items 103-113.

115. A siphon is a simple tube

that runs from the inside of the pond

over the bank

and lies on the ground outside the pond.

116. A siphon can be made

of plastic or rubber tubing

at least 3 centimetres in diameter.

117. The siphon must be long enough

to reach from the deepest part of the pond,

run over the top of the bank

and down the outside of the bank.

You will need a siphon about 8 metres long

to reach over the top of the bank

from the deep part to the outside.

118. When you are ready to empty your pond,

put all of the siphon into the pond.

It will fill with water.

Be sure the tube is full of water

from one end to the other.

If the siphon is not full of water,

it will not work.

119. While the siphon is still in the water,

close one end of the tube with a plug

and leave the other end open.

120. Leave the open end of the siphon

below the surface of the water.

You can use stones

to hold the siphon under the water,

but be sure that they are not so heavy

that the water will be shut off.

121. Take the other end of the siphon,

which is closed with the plug,

over the top of the bank

and put it on the ground outside the pond.

If the ground on the outside of the pond

is higher than the pond bottom at the deepest part,

you will have to dig a ditch

so that the end of the siphon

on the outside of the pond

will be lower than the end of the siphon

in the pond.

The ditch will also take the water away

when you empty your pond.

122. Now, take the plug out of the siphon.

If the end on the outside

is lower than the end in the pond

and if the end in the pond

is under water,

water will start to flow through the tube

and out of your pond.

123. If the end of the siphon

in the pond

comes to the surface,

the water may stop flowing.

If this happens,

put the siphon into the pond

to fill it with water

and begin again.

124. It will take a lot more time

to empty a pond with a siphon

than with an outlet.

If you use a siphon

of about 3 centimetres in diameter,

it will take about three days

to empty your pond.

Screens

125. Your inlet should have a screen

to keep out wild fish, dirt and trash

when you fill the pond.

126. If you fill your pond

with an inlet trench,

it should have a screen, too.

127. A siphon, which is very small,

usually does not have a screen.

128. Your outlet should have a screen

to keep your fish from getting away

when you empty your pond.

129. Your overflow should have a screen

to keep your fish from getting away

when the pond is too full

and the water begins to overflow.

130. You can easily make screens

for your inlet, outlet and overflow

from fine-mesh plastic or metal

or from a tin with holes in the end.

131. Screens should be placed

outside the pond on the inlet pipe

and inside the pond

on the outlet and overflow pipes.

132. This will keep the pipes

from filling with trash

which could stop the flow of water.

133. Lash the screens tightly in place

on the pipes,

using heavy cord or light wire,

134. If you fill your pond

by cutting a trench through the bank,

you can screen the opening

using a fish trap, split and woven bamboo,

a clay pot with holes in the bottom

or a piece of metal roofing with holes,

as you did in Booklet No. 27, page 21.

135. When you are filling or emptying your pond,

clean the screens often.

If you do not do this,

dirt and leaves will cover them up

and the water will not flow.

136. This book has told you

how to build a bigger pond

and how to build it better.

137. Now that your new pond is built,

you will have to learn more.

You will need to learn

• how to fill your pond with water

• how to fertilize your pond

• about the fish

you will put into your pond

• how to feed your fish every day

• how to care for your fish

• how to harvest your fish

138. The next booklet in this series,

Booklet No. 30, Better freshwater fish farming:

the fish, will help you.

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Brazil  Livraria Mestre Jou, Rua Guaipá 518, Sâo Paulo 05089; Rua Senador Dantas 19-S205/206, 20.031 Rio de Janeiro; PRODIL, Promoção e Dist, de Livros Ltda., Av. Venáncio Aires 196, Caixa Postal 4005, 90.000 Porto Alegre; A NOSSA LIVRARIA, CLS 104, Bloco C, Lojas 18/19, 70.000 Brasilia, D.F.

Brunei  SST Trading Sdn. Bhd., Bangunan Tekno No. 385, Jln 5/59, P.O. Box 227, Petaling Jaya, Selangor.

Canada  Renouf Publishing Co. Ltd., 2182 St Catherine West, Montreal, Que, H3H 1M7.

Chile  Tecnolibro S.A., Merced 753, entrepiso 15, Santiago.

China  China National Publications Import Corporation, P.O. Box 88, Beijing.

Colombia  Editorial Blume de Colombia Ltda., Calle 65 N° 16-65, Apartado Aéreo 51340, Bogotá D.E.

Costa Rica  Librería, Imprenta y Litografía Lehmann S.A., Apartado 10011, San José.

Cuba  Empresa de Comercio Exterior de Publicaciones, O’Reilly 407 Bajos entre Aguacate y Compostela, Havana.

Cyprus  MAM, P.O. Box 1722, Nicosia.

Czechoslovakia  ARTIA, Ve Smeckach 30, P.O. Box 790,111 27 Prague 1.

Denmark  Munksgaard Export and Subscription Service, 35 Nørre Søgade, DK 1370 Copenhagen K.

Dominican Rep.  Fundación Dominicana de Desarrollo, Casa de las Gárgolas, Mercedes 4, Apartado 857, Zona Postal 1, Santo Domingo.

Ecuador  Su Librería Cía. Ltda., García Moreno 1172 y Mejía, Apartado 2556, Quito; Chimborazo 416, Apartado 3565, Guayaquil.

El Salvador  Librería Cultural Salvadoreña S.A. de C.V., Calle Arce 423, Apartado Postal 2296, San Salvador.

Finland  Akateeminen Kirjakauppa, 1 Keskuskatu, P.O. Box 128, 00101 Helsinki 10.

France  Editions A, Pedone, 13, rue Soufflot, 75005 Paris.

Germany, F. R.  Alexander Horn Internationale Buchhandlung, Spiegelgasse 9, Postfach 3340, 6200 Wiesbaden.

Ghana  Fides Enterprises, P.O. Box 14129, Accra; Ghana Publishing Corporation, P.O. Box 3632, Accra.

Greece  G.C. Eleftheroudakis S.A..International Bookstore, 4 Nikis Street, Athens (T-126); John Mihalopoulos & Son S.A., International Booksellers, 75 Hermou Street, P.O. Box 73, Thessaloniki.

Guatemala  Distribuciones Culturales y Técnicas “Artemis”, 5a. Avenida 12-11, Zona 1 .Apartado Postal 2923, Guatemala.

Guinea-Bissau  Conselho Nacional da Cultura, Avenida da Unidade Africana, C.P. 294, Bissau.

Guyana  Guyana National Trading Corporation Ltd, 45-47 Water Street, P.O. Box 308, Georgetown.

Haiti  Librairie “A la Caravelle”, 26, rue Bonne Foi, B.P. 111, Port-au-Prince.

Hong Kong  Swindon Book Co., 13-15 Lock Road, Kowloon.)

Hungary  Kultura, P.O. Box 149, 1389 Budapest 62.

Iceland  Snaebjörn Jónsson and Co. h.f., Hafnarstraeti 9, P.O. Box 1131, 101 Reykjavik.

India  Oxford Book and Stationery Co., Scindia House, New Delhi 110001; 17 Park Street, Calcutta 700016.

Indonesia  P.T. Sari Agung, 94 Kebon Sirih, P.O. Box 411, Djakarta.

Iraq  National House for Publishing, Distributing and Advertising, Jamhuria Street, Baghdad.

Ireland  The Controller, Stationery Office. Dublin 4.

Italy  Distribution and Sales Section, Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations, Via delle Terme di Caracalla, 00100 Rome; Libreria Scientifica Dott, Lucio de Biasio “Aeiou”, Via Meravigli 16, 20123 Milan; Libreria Commissionaria Sansoni S.p.A. “Licosa”, Via Lamarmora 45, C.P. 552, 50121 Florence.

Japan  Maruzen Company Ltd, P.O. Box 5050, Tokyo International 100-31.

Kenya  Text Book Centre Ltd, Kijabe Street, P.O. Box 47540, Nairobi.

Kuwait  Saeed & Samir Bookstore Co. Ltd., P.O. Box 5445, Kuwait.

Luxembourg  Service des publications de la FAO, M.J. de Lannoy, 202, avenue du Roi, 1060 Brussels (Belgium).

Malaysia  SST Trading Sdn. Bhd., Bangunan Tekno No. 385, Jln 5/59, P.O. Box 227, Petaling Jaya, Selangor.

Mauritius  Nalanda Company Limited, 30 Bourbon Street, Port-Louis.

Mexico  Dilitsa S.A., Puebla 182-D, Apartado 24-448, Mexico 7. D.F.

Morocco  Librairie “ Aux Belles Images”, 281 avenue Mohammed V, Rabat.

Netherlands  Keesing Boeken V.B., Joan Muyskenweg 22, 1096 CJ Amsterdam.

New Zealand  Government Printing Office, Government Printing Office Bookshops: Retail Bookshop, 25 Rutland Street, Mail Orders, 85 Beach Road, Private Bag C.P.O., Auckland; Retail, Ward Street, Mail Orders, P.O. Box 857, Hamilton; Retail, Mulgrave Street (Head Office), Cubacade World Trade Centre, Mail Orders, Private Bag, Wellington; Retail, 159 Hereford Street, Mail Ordiers, Private Bag, Christchurch; Retail, Princes Street, Mail Orders, P.O. Box 1104, Dunedin.

Nigeria  University Bookshop (Nigeria) Limited, University of Ibadan, Ibadan.

Norway  Johan GrundtTanum Bokhande), Karl Johansgate 41-43, P.O. Box 1177 Sentrum, Oslo 1.

Pakistan  Mirza Book Agency, 65 Shahrah-e-Quaid-e-Azam, P.O. Box 729, Lahore 3.

Panama  Distribuidora Lewis S.A., Edificio Dorasol, Calle 25 y Avenida Balboa, Apartado 1634, Panama 1.

Paraguay  Agencia de Librerías Nizza S.A., Tacuarí 144, Asunción.

Peru  Librería Distribuidora Santa Rosa, Jirón Apurímac 375, Casilla 4937, Lima 1.

Philippines  The Modern Book Company Inc., 922 Rizal Avenue, P.O. Box 632, Manila.

Poland  Ars Polona, Krakowskie Przedmiescie 7, 00-068 Warsaw.

Portugal  Livraria Bertrand. S.A.R.L., Rua João de Deus, Venda Nova, Apartado 37, 2701 Amadora Codex; Livraria Portugal, Dias y Andrade Ltda., Rua do Carmo 70-74, Apartado 2681,1117 Lisbon Codex; Ediãões ITAU, Avda. da República 46/A-r/c Esqdo., Lisbon 1.

Korea, Rep. of  Eul-Yoo Publishing Co. Ltd, 46-1 Susong-Dong, Jongro-Gu, P.O. Box Kwang-Wha-Moon 362, Seoul.

Romania  Ilexim, Calea Grivitei N° 64-66, B.P. 2001, Bucharest.

Saudi Arabia  The Modern Commercial University, P.O. Box 394, Riyadh.

Sierra Leone  Provincial Enterprises, 26 Garrison Street, P.O. Box 1228, Freetown.

Singapore  MPH Distributors (S) Pte. Ltd, 71/77 Stamford Road, Singapore 6; Select Books Pte. Ltd, 215 Tanglin Shopping Centre, 19 Tanglin Road, Singapore 1024; SST Trading Sdn. Bhd., Bangunan Tekno No. 385, Jln 5/59, P.O. Box 227, Petaling Jaya, Selangor.

Somalia  “Samater’s”, P.O. Box 936, Mogadishu.

Spain  Mundi Prensa Libros S.A., Castelló 37, Madrid 1; Librería Agricola, Fernando VI 2, Madrid 4.

Sri Lanka  M.D. Gunasena & Co. Ltd, 217 Olcott Mawatha, P.O. Box 246, Colombo 11.

Sudan  University Bookshop, University of Khartoum, P.O. Box 321, Khartoum.

Suriname  VACO n.v. in Suriname, Dominee Straat 26, P.O. Box 1841, Paramaribo.

Sweden  C.E. Fritzes Kungl. Hovbokhandel, Regeringsgatan 12, P.O. Box 16356, 103 27 Stockholm.

Switzerland  Librairie Payot S.A., Lausanne et Genève; Buchhandlung und Antiquariat, Heinimann & Co., Kirchgasse 17, 8001 Zurich.

Thailand  Suksapan Panit, Mansion 9, Rajadamnern Avenue, Bangkok.

Togo  Librairie du Bon Pasteur, B.P. 1164, Lomé.

Tunisia  Société tunisienne de diffusion, 5, avenue de Carthage, Tunis.

United Kingdom  Her Majesty’s Stationery Once, 49 High Holborn, London WC1V 6HB (callers only); P.O. Box 569, London SE1 9NH (trade and London area mail orders); 13a Castle Street, Edinburgh EH2 3AR; 41 The Hayes, Cardiff CF1 1JW; 80 Chichester Street, Belfast BT1 4JY; Brazennose Street, Manchester M60 8AS; 258 Broad Street, Birmingham B1 2HE; Southey House, Wine Street, Bristol BS1 2BQ.

Tanzania, United Rep. of  Dar es-Salaam Bookshop, P.O. Box 9030, Dar es-Salaam; Bookshop, University of Dar es-Salaam, P.O. Box 893, Morogoro.

United States of America  UNIPUB, 345 Park Avenue South, New York, N.Y. 10010.

Uruguay  Librería Agropecuaria S.R.L., Alzaibar 1328, Casilla de Correos 1755, Montevideo.

Venezuela  Blume Distribuidora S.A., Gran Avenida de Sabana Grande, Residencias Caroni, Local 5, Apartado 50.339, 1050-A Caracas.

Yugoslavia  Jugoslovenska Knjiga,Trg. Republike 5/8, P.O. Box 36, 11001 Belgrade; Cankarjeva Zalozba, P.O. Box 201-lV, 61001 Ljubljana; Prosveta, Terazije 16, P.O. Box 555, 11001 Belgrade.

Zambia  Kingstons (Zambia) Ltd, Kingstons Building, President Avenue, P.O. Box 139, Ndola.

Other countries  Requests from countries where sales agents have not yet been appointed may be sent to; Distribution and Sales Section, Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations, Via delle Terme di Caracalla, 00100 Rome, Italy.